Snow Day!

Last night it snowed here.  Not a whole lot,just enough to cover the ground.  I like the snow.  It makes everything look like its new again.  It cleans away all the funk and is so much fun to mess around in.  I have been doing some more writing on my new romance book.  Maybe a couple hours a day I guess.  Depends how I feel.  The one thing that kinda amazes me is that for all the crap Ive been through and put myself through, I still have some hope.  I mean, do I think Ill ever get out of my rut?  Probably not, I mean Ill probly always be poor, Im cool with that.  I think if anything I really just want peace.  Like Im not interested in the newest As seen on TV piece of shit, I dont get too excited about TGIF.  For all intents,everyday is a Friday for me.  I do get stoked when checkin out new videos of surfing.  I love the surf break Teahupoo.  I mean, Ive never surfed it but it is the most awesome wave Ive ever seen.  It breaks on some seriously dangerous reefs and is freakin gigantic when it breaks but its such a mysterious wave.  Laird Hamilton took off on this break over a decade ago when people thought it was unsurfable.  If you havent see a Teahupoo wave check it out on Utube.  So, thats what gets my blood moving.  Surf.  Back when I was a kid I used to have a  ton of surf posters on my walls of surfers like Shaun Thompson, Laird Hamilton, Mark Richards and a whole bunch of other rippers from the 70s.   Then in the early 80s to late 80s I surfed with some of the best out in San Diego.  I even managed to surf some semi pro events and came in the top three in a contest when I was in NC in 1984.   I remember the day, it was so freakin cold and the waves were big and choppy.  The trophies were all set up and the two who were thought to take first were me and a guy from Florida.  I surfed my heart out and caught a good backside wave and got tubed which almost putthe contest in the bag for me.  The guy from Florida caught a good right, and ripped some killer off the lips and I think a couple 360s on a wave and he ended up edging me out.  So, I took second.  But out of about 50 surfers all up and down the east coast I thought that was cool.  I had a wife back then, we were young, about 20 so I was all caught up in surfing and women and partying so yea the relationship tanked eventually..But the surfing was my love and really always has been.  Women were second, and in the end probably my downfall.  With surfing came lots of women.  Some from Brazil, others from my hometown.  I ended up taking the bait and got caught up with alot of them.  So, now I look back and realize that surfing was all I ever really wanted in life.  Just to be in the water is what floats my boat.  A few months ago when I was in California I went out at Oceanside pier and had a blast.  Once I hitt the water I knew I was back in my element.  Theres nothing like paddling out on a glassy day and having nice 3-4 foot lefts breaking perfect.   The ironic thing is that all of the changes we go through as people, you can always go to the beach and still see waves break.  It never really changes.  I mean there are flat days, big days, choppy days but its always there.  The beach is where I grew up, my dad was a diehard surfer and all of my friends too.  Then shit changes, some turn to drugs, some to alcohol, some go crazy, life happens.  But the beach is always there, it doesnt really change much.   So, today I find myself in a different scene.  Like maybe I grew up too late I dont know.  Maybe I never really was prepared to live and raise a kid even though Im doing it.  Hes 10 now, almost sixth grade.  I can remember holding him when he was  few months old and his head wobbling like a bobblehead.  Now hes big, wow…life is weird.  Sometimes he will see old pictures of me and go wow, thats cool. Or, I want to surf.  I tell him its a lifestyle, you dont just wake up one day and start rippin waves.  It takes years of dedication. He has no patience for that.  So, I doubt he will ever really get into surfing.  I took him once and he freaked.  lol…I thought it was funny.  So, I want to thank or congratulate Casey Voight for her nomination on The Next Big Thing Award.  Congrats Casey and thanks for nominating me as well.  Cool stuff.   Check Casey out, shes hot, smart, witty and talented.   Other than that, Im laying low today…nothing happens when the snow falls around here.  Everything seems to tank.  34289_1465539951891_1035296850_1347765_196550_n22741RTdcn4hFL._SL500_AA300_

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